Domaine le Sang des Cailloux: Cuvée Azalaïs

Another delightful example of what's possible from the Rhône's offbeat appellations

Originally published on my Substack September 3, 2020

Before the advent of such barbaric fads as “California varietals”, discerning American’s bought wine by the importer. Most of us still should. Find yourself a terrific importer like Kermit Lynch or José Pastor and banish mundane vintages forever! You can explore new appellations with confidence that what your drinking is family-owned, environmentally responsible, expressive, and fairly priced (but I digress - more on this another time).

The “Blood of the Stones” hails from the relatively young appellation of Vacqueyras in the Southern Rhône and is brought to us by Kermit Lynch, the wine importer par excellence. As a younger sibling of the more grandiose Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas - this offering from Vacqueyras compliments Kermit’s peerless Vieux Télégraphe (Châteauneuf-du-Pape) and exquisite Les Pallières (Gigondas) as a more affordable example of a grenache-focused blend.

(Above: Attempting to cope with late summer’s melancholy)

One glance into this turgid, inky vino suggests that this is unfiltered and probably organic - and it is. While the nose does give you a decent amount of spice and leather, what sticks out is that pleasant, funky odor you get from red Bandol - which I love and distinguishes Cuvée Azalaïs from its more expensive neighbors.

(Above: Serge Férigoule replete with handlebar moustache, never was there an image of a more confidence-inspiring vigneron)

As to flavor, I was delighted by the garrigue and dark fruit which left more than subtle traces of Havana cigar. Those who like to chew their drink will not be disappointed with its immense concentration, a product of the low-yielding vines and the region’s arid, rocky soil.

The Domaine’s red (the name changes every year after Serge’s daughters Floureto, Doucinello, and Azalaïs) should run you less than $35 and is well worth the expenditure. It has wonderful terroir, evoking the long scorching afternoons of this most special of French valleys.

Santé!